In my pursuit of getting ever better flight sticks, I recently acquired a Virpil T-50 stick that somehow needed to get mounted to my Obutto.

3D printing to the rescue: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2666670

Should work fine with the recommended print settings in PLA (slightly wobbly), but if you want to have a seriously rigid one, do it in ColorFabb XT-CF20. It is pretty much indistinguishable from steel for this application. Also, Copolyesters like E3D Edge or ASA stuff like MatX should work well.

ABS should also be doable, but given the size of the thing I’d expect warpage to be horrible to manage without an enclosed print area to keep temps stable.

In any case, enjoy!

Nice mhe,

I hope you are enjoying your T-50!

I just received my Gunfighter rev B with MCG and am thinking of mounting ideas for my revolution. Still deciding on side vs center mounting. Center is preferable for me, but slightly more ‘clunky’ when stowing, esp if using an extension.

Ive thought about getting a Warthog kit, and affixing a custom plate for the Gunfighter since the base is only slightly bigger, but printing something never really occurred to me. Still, for the rigidity, I imagine the harder stocks would be pricey. Still, worth investigating as I am still trying to locate a metal shop that would take really small jobs.

Thanks for the idea!

Hi Chris

I’d like to beg / plead / request an additional ‘product’ as an ‘optional replacement’ to one of the existing shelf articulating arms.

Here’s the problem.

I’m a flight sim player, but I’ve just started to get into racing games. So I’ve got the hotas (warthog) and now a wheel, pedals and shifter.

However because of my flight sim, I’ve got the triple monitors and a forth mounting on the dorsal wheel / monitor arm – that leaves my two articulating side arms free for keyboards, iPads / iPhone etc.

Now though, I need to use the dorsal arm and bracket for mounting the steering wheel. But it’s a huge pain to unscrew the monitor for just one gaming session.

However, what if one of the side articulating arm / shelves could take my 24″ touchscreen monitor and when I want to race, I slide in the dorsal arm / bracket with the wheel already attached and play as normal, but when I want my 4 monitor flight sim setup, I slide out the wheel / bracket / arm and use a NEW TYPE of articulating arm to move the 24″ touch screen monitor from the side (where it’s been out of the way) and move it so it’s now in dead centre and resting back up against the dorsal spine housing.

The current shelf articulating arms are almost good enough – but the problem is the first ‘arm’ from the main hinge on the cockpit. The arm is solid and long and so the monitor can’t be flush with the dorsal spine nor central – it locks at 90 degrees.

However, if you had split that long arm up into two, with the new pivot hinge point at such a distance from the main hinge, that it folds back onto the dorsal spine at the right distance, then you can have a 4th monitor dead central and as close to the dorsal spine of the cockpit when you want it, and then move it out to the side (below one of the side triple monitors) when you don’t. This also (for sim racing fans) means that the game it running on the 3 monitors, but touch screen controls, or windows desktop / email / other apps can be running on the 4th monitor off to the lower side, whilst they still race with the wheel.

I’d gladly help in any way I can to make this replacement arm assembly a reality as it would save me lots to money / time / hassle when I want to switch between game types.

What do you think Chris?

The base of this mod is the flight sim obutto r3volution.
First, I have mounted the right acrylic arm upside down, and I have removed the acrylic tabletop.
This allowed me to mount there my keyboard. I tied it with double sided tape.
As the arm is mounted upside down, the keyboard is just in the good position, and I can tilt it as will, put it in front of me, or away to the right when I’m in flight sim mode.

Notice how I have decided to use a finger trackball rather than a mouse, I find a trackball more convenient in a gaming cockpit. I used one of the stick mount to put the trackball on (and I tied it with double face tape too so my baby does not steal it ^^) I think we can use a mouse as well, but this will require to put there a bigger surface.

So, as I have put the keyboard there, I removed the keyboard tray. Therefore, this allows me to use the keyboard tray arm as a joystick arm instead.
And so, with that in mind, I was able to put this right stick either in a fly by wire mode (stick on the right)…

Or in a centered stick position like in some other planes (F-86F Sabre in DCS) or some space ships (military space ships in star citizen)…

Also, some space ships in star citizen are designed for a two sticks setup instead of one stick and a throttle (the avenger for instance). In this situation I move away the throttle arm (I have put it on the shifter arm so this is easily moveable) and I turn the arm where I have put my T16000, and I have a two sticks configuration…

And last, if I want to fly helicopters, I just put my real size cyclic in front of me, and I use the X55 throttle as collective…

Notice that I have more stick mounts than those provided in the flight r3v configuration, this is because I kept those I have from obutto ozone.

And now I’m ready for any flight sim setup, easily… just need good pedals now, will buy the MFG crosswind…

Thanks for the modularity of the R3v, even if it was not designed like that. But the keyboard tray was way too big in the way, and the tabletop mount was perfect for the keyboard 😉
Oh, and don’t forget the buttkicker…

But now I need a platform and kinetic protection for that…

Feel free to comment…

(If you want bigger size pictures, right click on a picture, then copy picture, or copy picture link, depending on your browser, then put the link in a new tab of your browser)

The old one (obuttto-uk.com) has stopped being a distributor and I’m worried all that leaves us with is obutto.eu – which is a problem because a €40 item has €59 shipping!!!!’

Now I know for a start that’s a bit of a price gouge, but is there any other option?

Hi, i’m not very good in english and this is hard for me to explain my problems, so please accept my apologies before i start, this is also why i never talk about that before (and i never find the courage and the time to do) but i’m disappointed by my Obutto R3volution.

I have bought them almost one year ago now, and after a lot of delivery issues (Seat traveled across all Europe before going here) i have founded severals problems.

First, the spin torso is not flat at all.
The left side “bar” (i’m not sure of the word) are to high beside the right side, so the torso is twisted, the result of that, my wheel are never straight.
This is my major issue.

Another one, the plate for pedals moove, and when you place your feet on it you can ear an annoying “CLINK”.

Another one (again sorry) i have reived one of my acrylic table top scratched (i ‘m not sure of the word sorry again :p ) in a corner, not a big deal, but for 120 dollars (thanks to the european price the day when i ordered) i expected them to be perfect.
And one of them are not straight to, because of the metal piece little twisted to (when you fix the arm of the acrylic table).

Also, i have moovement in the seat to (lile one in very old car) and a metal bar inside look like broken (on the middle) one day i heard a CRAC.
An now the middle of the seat are “soft” no resistance in it.
My weight is about 120 lbs just for info, i’m very light, so this is not my weight have broken the internal bar of the seat, and i’m the only one user of it.

I meet lots of other small issues such as welds that are sometimes sloppy (I’m a welder, I know what I mean), but issues above are the main for me.

The other thing i can report this is you don’t sale 5.1 mounts for 21:9 setup.
This is disappointing, and yet I remember seeing people tell you already a year before, so i think you don’t have the intention to evolve at all, right ?

This is all.
This post is just for sharing my own experience (i hope is understandable i am very bad english i know), the principle of this gaming rig is awesome, but honestly, for 1100$ (Thanks European stupid taxes and massive shippings fee’s) if we had to redo it, i will not ordering it again.

Even if i have to build it by myself and I do not recommend it for anyone.
Thanks.

Hello,

Ive got the thrustmaster T500rs wheel and pedals installed and mounted to my system, as far back as they will go but I need another 3 inches or so to be completely comfortable and stretch my legs the way I want to. Is there any way to get a set of seat tracks that are extended a bit to allow the chair to travel further back?

Hey all!
Two years ago i got myself Obutto r3v. And damn that it works and looks good.

About a year ago i got myself a copilot, still in training though.

Now, all is good and well, and even the Oculus Rift eventually shipped. Now I don’t need all those screens anymore. Not to mention that in the future I may have to move from this room..

But what? It looks so short..

So short!

But, it is still perfectly stable. Cant kick or punch it anywhere. Only way to make it tip is to recline the seat and sit on the end..

Cut the middle a bit as well, this allows the acrylic tabletops a lot more movement range. The table’s can now actually touch each other. The part for the wheel still slides in, and can be tightened normally, if i ever decide to get a wheel.

This will eventually be a full mod as I adapt the oZone to make it perfect for my purposes.

Since I have a small apartment, achieving a high WAF means I can’t have everything stacked about the room. The oZone has more than a foot of depth between the monitor and the very front of the rig so I started by adding two brackets to the front so that my computer case could sit up off the ground for increased cooling and to reduce the footprint of my gaming rig. I left it open underneath since the feet of my case (Cooler Master Storm Stryker) are the perfect width for me to bolt the case down through them, but if needed I can bolt a shelf across it and set any case there.

The next thing I wanted to do was attach my Razer Orbweaver next to my Warthog throttle so that I could jump from flying to FPS. I saw @MHE’s 3D printed mod and thought that it would be a great high end solution, I could do a cheap and effective alternative. I took a 1’x1′ 16 ga steel plate and traced out the shape of my gamepad, and then had it bent with pre-stressed bends to make it super rigid. I have since moved from HOTAS to HOSAS (dual stick) but I still want the keypad there.

@abaddon and I apparently had the same idea on how to adapt the oZone for a game that requires a keyboard, mouse and joysticks or HOTAS all at the same time. Particularly when we’re moving into VR, putting the controls within easy reach and in a predictable location is huge. So today I finally finished my center keyboard mount. I’m going to add a covered storage box to it to hold my Rift, but it looks good so far.

I had a local welding shop add two supports sticking out from the uprights at a two degree upward angle since my monitor uprights leaned forward two degrees and as I want the top flat as a surface for game notes and coffee, I wanted the working surface totally level. These are supported by a small fillet on each side. On the top is a full width shelf with a 1/2″ lip in the back to prevent things from falling off the back, and in the front is a 3/4″ lip to prevent the keyboard from falling out of its track

I then located the holes for the keyboard track, drilled and countersunk the holes. I also added four holes (one in from each corner) so that I can attach a storage box I intend to make which will hold my Rift and Touch controllers. I then prepped and painted it a matte black to match the oZone.

@chris I think this could be a great stock part for you guys. Instead of welding the whole assembly together, two sockets could be added to the monitor uprights and the shelf with it’s legs could slot in there and be tightened down like the rest of the Obutto accessories.

I am in a month or so be removing the angled side posts that make up the footbox so that I can put a pair of Slaw RX Viper’s in there.

There doesn’t seem to be any recent updates to the site, no replies on forum posts and everything just seems…quiet.

I hope CHRIS AND HIS FAMILY AND BUSINESS ARE WELL. HES A WONDERFUL MAN, AND DESERVES ALL THE BEST.

Hello,

I like to sim race online and have gone from triple screen onwards to VR.

Wheel wise I have moved up from the G27 to the T500RS and I am now running a 130ST-M15015 (motor) based wheel. Direct drive wheels deliver a much better feel and the torque is enough that if set for high force feedback even a strong builder will start to feel it after a few laps.

I found that the bar support broke away from one side due to the demands of my wheel which looks like this.

I took myself off to a local welder, paid twice what he asked to weld it back and also gave him a big box of cholates.

I told him what it is, what I use it for and that I have a powerful motor (serious sim racing community run direct drive motors “DD motors”).

Dropped off at 13:30, back at 15:30.

The master Welder (guy has been welding since 1980) said the original welding was not the best for what I was trying to do. He pointed out that he kept all the holes clear, he also mentioned he used a bronze alloy welding process which he tried to explain to me just how sticky or strong it forms, apparently this type of Welding delivers a very strong finish because of the way the alloy reacts or mixes.

I threw an extra ten pounds in his top pocket and made my way home.

Guy did a good job by experience, he said any issue come back.

Going to give this a try and see how its strength feels,

In my pursuit of getting ever better flight sticks, I recently acquired a Virpil T-50 stick that somehow needed to get mounted to my Obutto.

3D printing to the rescue: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2666670

Should work fine with the recommended print settings in PLA (slightly wobbly), but if you want to have a seriously rigid one, do it in ColorFabb XT-CF20. It is pretty much indistinguishable from steel for this application. Also, Copolyesters like E3D Edge or ASA stuff like MatX should work well.

ABS should also be doable, but given the size of the thing I’d expect warpage to be horrible to manage without an enclosed print area to keep temps stable.

In any case, enjoy!

Hi Chris

I’d like to beg / plead / request an additional ‘product’ as an ‘optional replacement’ to one of the existing shelf articulating arms.

Here’s the problem.

I’m a flight sim player, but I’ve just started to get into racing games. So I’ve got the hotas (warthog) and now a wheel, pedals and shifter.

However because of my flight sim, I’ve got the triple monitors and a forth mounting on the dorsal wheel / monitor arm – that leaves my two articulating side arms free for keyboards, iPads / iPhone etc.

Now though, I need to use the dorsal arm and bracket for mounting the steering wheel. But it’s a huge pain to unscrew the monitor for just one gaming session.

However, what if one of the side articulating arm / shelves could take my 24″ touchscreen monitor and when I want to race, I slide in the dorsal arm / bracket with the wheel already attached and play as normal, but when I want my 4 monitor flight sim setup, I slide out the wheel / bracket / arm and use a NEW TYPE of articulating arm to move the 24″ touch screen monitor from the side (where it’s been out of the way) and move it so it’s now in dead centre and resting back up against the dorsal spine housing.

The current shelf articulating arms are almost good enough – but the problem is the first ‘arm’ from the main hinge on the cockpit. The arm is solid and long and so the monitor can’t be flush with the dorsal spine nor central – it locks at 90 degrees.

However, if you had split that long arm up into two, with the new pivot hinge point at such a distance from the main hinge, that it folds back onto the dorsal spine at the right distance, then you can have a 4th monitor dead central and as close to the dorsal spine of the cockpit when you want it, and then move it out to the side (below one of the side triple monitors) when you don’t. This also (for sim racing fans) means that the game it running on the 3 monitors, but touch screen controls, or windows desktop / email / other apps can be running on the 4th monitor off to the lower side, whilst they still race with the wheel.

I’d gladly help in any way I can to make this replacement arm assembly a reality as it would save me lots to money / time / hassle when I want to switch between game types.

What do you think Chris?

The base of this mod is the flight sim obutto r3volution.
First, I have mounted the right acrylic arm upside down, and I have removed the acrylic tabletop.
This allowed me to mount there my keyboard. I tied it with double sided tape.
As the arm is mounted upside down, the keyboard is just in the good position, and I can tilt it as will, put it in front of me, or away to the right when I’m in flight sim mode.

Notice how I have decided to use a finger trackball rather than a mouse, I find a trackball more convenient in a gaming cockpit. I used one of the stick mount to put the trackball on (and I tied it with double face tape too so my baby does not steal it ^^) I think we can use a mouse as well, but this will require to put there a bigger surface.

So, as I have put the keyboard there, I removed the keyboard tray. Therefore, this allows me to use the keyboard tray arm as a joystick arm instead.
And so, with that in mind, I was able to put this right stick either in a fly by wire mode (stick on the right)…

Or in a centered stick position like in some other planes (F-86F Sabre in DCS) or some space ships (military space ships in star citizen)…

Also, some space ships in star citizen are designed for a two sticks setup instead of one stick and a throttle (the avenger for instance). In this situation I move away the throttle arm (I have put it on the shifter arm so this is easily moveable) and I turn the arm where I have put my T16000, and I have a two sticks configuration…

And last, if I want to fly helicopters, I just put my real size cyclic in front of me, and I use the X55 throttle as collective…

Notice that I have more stick mounts than those provided in the flight r3v configuration, this is because I kept those I have from obutto ozone.

And now I’m ready for any flight sim setup, easily… just need good pedals now, will buy the MFG crosswind…

Thanks for the modularity of the R3v, even if it was not designed like that. But the keyboard tray was way too big in the way, and the tabletop mount was perfect for the keyboard 😉
Oh, and don’t forget the buttkicker…

But now I need a platform and kinetic protection for that…

Feel free to comment…

(If you want bigger size pictures, right click on a picture, then copy picture, or copy picture link, depending on your browser, then put the link in a new tab of your browser)

The old one (obuttto-uk.com) has stopped being a distributor and I’m worried all that leaves us with is obutto.eu – which is a problem because a €40 item has €59 shipping!!!!’

Now I know for a start that’s a bit of a price gouge, but is there any other option?

Hi, i’m not very good in english and this is hard for me to explain my problems, so please accept my apologies before i start, this is also why i never talk about that before (and i never find the courage and the time to do) but i’m disappointed by my Obutto R3volution.

I have bought them almost one year ago now, and after a lot of delivery issues (Seat traveled across all Europe before going here) i have founded severals problems.

First, the spin torso is not flat at all.
The left side “bar” (i’m not sure of the word) are to high beside the right side, so the torso is twisted, the result of that, my wheel are never straight.
This is my major issue.

Another one, the plate for pedals moove, and when you place your feet on it you can ear an annoying “CLINK”.

Another one (again sorry) i have reived one of my acrylic table top scratched (i ‘m not sure of the word sorry again :p ) in a corner, not a big deal, but for 120 dollars (thanks to the european price the day when i ordered) i expected them to be perfect.
And one of them are not straight to, because of the metal piece little twisted to (when you fix the arm of the acrylic table).

Also, i have moovement in the seat to (lile one in very old car) and a metal bar inside look like broken (on the middle) one day i heard a CRAC.
An now the middle of the seat are “soft” no resistance in it.
My weight is about 120 lbs just for info, i’m very light, so this is not my weight have broken the internal bar of the seat, and i’m the only one user of it.

I meet lots of other small issues such as welds that are sometimes sloppy (I’m a welder, I know what I mean), but issues above are the main for me.

The other thing i can report this is you don’t sale 5.1 mounts for 21:9 setup.
This is disappointing, and yet I remember seeing people tell you already a year before, so i think you don’t have the intention to evolve at all, right ?

This is all.
This post is just for sharing my own experience (i hope is understandable i am very bad english i know), the principle of this gaming rig is awesome, but honestly, for 1100$ (Thanks European stupid taxes and massive shippings fee’s) if we had to redo it, i will not ordering it again.

Even if i have to build it by myself and I do not recommend it for anyone.
Thanks.

Hello,

Ive got the thrustmaster T500rs wheel and pedals installed and mounted to my system, as far back as they will go but I need another 3 inches or so to be completely comfortable and stretch my legs the way I want to. Is there any way to get a set of seat tracks that are extended a bit to allow the chair to travel further back?

Hey all!
Two years ago i got myself Obutto r3v. And damn that it works and looks good.

About a year ago i got myself a copilot, still in training though.

Now, all is good and well, and even the Oculus Rift eventually shipped. Now I don’t need all those screens anymore. Not to mention that in the future I may have to move from this room..

But what? It looks so short..

So short!

But, it is still perfectly stable. Cant kick or punch it anywhere. Only way to make it tip is to recline the seat and sit on the end..

Cut the middle a bit as well, this allows the acrylic tabletops a lot more movement range. The table’s can now actually touch each other. The part for the wheel still slides in, and can be tightened normally, if i ever decide to get a wheel.

This will eventually be a full mod as I adapt the oZone to make it perfect for my purposes.

Since I have a small apartment, achieving a high WAF means I can’t have everything stacked about the room. The oZone has more than a foot of depth between the monitor and the very front of the rig so I started by adding two brackets to the front so that my computer case could sit up off the ground for increased cooling and to reduce the footprint of my gaming rig. I left it open underneath since the feet of my case (Cooler Master Storm Stryker) are the perfect width for me to bolt the case down through them, but if needed I can bolt a shelf across it and set any case there.

The next thing I wanted to do was attach my Razer Orbweaver next to my Warthog throttle so that I could jump from flying to FPS. I saw @MHE’s 3D printed mod and thought that it would be a great high end solution, I could do a cheap and effective alternative. I took a 1’x1′ 16 ga steel plate and traced out the shape of my gamepad, and then had it bent with pre-stressed bends to make it super rigid. I have since moved from HOTAS to HOSAS (dual stick) but I still want the keypad there.

@abaddon and I apparently had the same idea on how to adapt the oZone for a game that requires a keyboard, mouse and joysticks or HOTAS all at the same time. Particularly when we’re moving into VR, putting the controls within easy reach and in a predictable location is huge. So today I finally finished my center keyboard mount. I’m going to add a covered storage box to it to hold my Rift, but it looks good so far.

I had a local welding shop add two supports sticking out from the uprights at a two degree upward angle since my monitor uprights leaned forward two degrees and as I want the top flat as a surface for game notes and coffee, I wanted the working surface totally level. These are supported by a small fillet on each side. On the top is a full width shelf with a 1/2″ lip in the back to prevent things from falling off the back, and in the front is a 3/4″ lip to prevent the keyboard from falling out of its track

I then located the holes for the keyboard track, drilled and countersunk the holes. I also added four holes (one in from each corner) so that I can attach a storage box I intend to make which will hold my Rift and Touch controllers. I then prepped and painted it a matte black to match the oZone.

@chris I think this could be a great stock part for you guys. Instead of welding the whole assembly together, two sockets could be added to the monitor uprights and the shelf with it’s legs could slot in there and be tightened down like the rest of the Obutto accessories.

I am in a month or so be removing the angled side posts that make up the footbox so that I can put a pair of Slaw RX Viper’s in there.

There doesn’t seem to be any recent updates to the site, no replies on forum posts and everything just seems…quiet.

I hope CHRIS AND HIS FAMILY AND BUSINESS ARE WELL. HES A WONDERFUL MAN, AND DESERVES ALL THE BEST.